Albariño 2018 91 BB W&S Aug20

BEST BUY; Cristina Mantilla selects the fruit from Adegas Valmiñor’s 86 acres of vines in Condado do Teas, the vineyard planted on schist. She broadens the flavors through an eight-hour cold maceration with the grape skins… On the finish, a splash of apple fruit and salinity crashes like a wave. It’s a casual, elegant, oceanic white suited to ceviche. – P.T.