YEAR’S BEST WHITE BURGUNDIES; BEST BUY; This is green-gold in color, tight and austere. Its savory character brings to mind whole wheat and green gemstones shot through with light, what one taster described as a “filigreed minerality.” Clean and balanced, this needs cellar time to open. Pillot’s vines are at the top of the Morgeot cru, where it meets Caillerets and Champgains. – J.G.
