Clos Ste. Hune is a 4.12-acre parcel of limestone in the Rosacker vineyard, a south-southeast-facing site the Trimbach family has farmed for more than two centuries. It produces one of Alsace’s longest-lived wines, this 2008 needing several days to show itself, revealing scents of seashells out of the spicy radish and rice-like savor of the structure. There’s nothing fruity about it, focused instead on a powerful umami force that seems to derive directly from the soil. If opened now, decant it for lobster with mushrooms and cream. – T.T.