Cornas “Les Ruchets” 2016 95 WS May19

This has a ripe and fleshy feel, with blueberry, açaí and blackberry compote flavors at the core, laced with cocoa powder and smoldering tobacco notes. The plush feel recedes on the finish a touch as a cast-iron note creeps in, keeping this grounded. Very solid. Best from 2023 through 2035. From France.—J.M.