YEAR’S BEST WHITE BURGUNDIES; Bottle age has brought out this wine’s rose and honeysuckle perfume. Go deeper and you’ll find an umami-rich white, with classic scents of wheat sheaf and orange blossom, juicy pear and chalky minerality. The wine’s energy carries it fresh for days after the bottle is opened, as it develops from cool, gentle fruit austerity toward sunny warmth, the creamy richness amplified in the middle, then holding tight in the finish. – T.T.
