YEAR’S BEST WHITE BURGUNDIES; This is a powerful young wine, its flavors sealed off behind the flintlock of reduction. Over the course of several days, its clarity and purity come into focus, with hints of meadow flowers, fresh spring grasses and a meatiness to the tannic structure of its pale lees. Treat it like the grand cru that it is and cellar it for ten years. – J.G.
