Deep, complex nose hints at subtle brown spices, minerals and crushed stone, with smoked meat and more exotic spices emerging with aeration. Dense but light on its feet, lifted by lovely inner-mouth floral character and good acid cut. Highly concentrated, gripping gewurztraminer, with a silky texture and an impression of strong dry extract. Finishes with terrific grip and persistence. This tastes virtually as dry as the normale, and yet there are 15 grams of residual sugar here. – S.T.
