Year’s Best German Rieslings. The Markgraf family is credited with planting the first all-riesling vineyard in Baden in 1782, choosing a site in Durbach at the top of the Schlossberg hill. That site, Klingelberger, is the source of this wine, a firm, austere riesling with a saline grip. It tastes more of stone than fruit, the mineral tones mouthfilling in their concentration. Give it another year in the cellar to relax; then pour with freshwater fish.
