Year’s Best No. Rhones; Jean-Luc Colombo, his viticulturist wife, Anne, and their daughter Laure now work together to make the wines at this estate, which Jean-Luc founded in 1987. They pull this wine from 50-year-old vines, with a little roussanne making its way into the mix, destemming the grapes and aging the wine in barrels (15 percent new) for about 18 months. The 2017 is dark and rich, its black-plum flavors edged in oak char. It feels regal and staid, a beefy red to drink with a rib roast. – T.T.
