Angles and curves collide in this intensely stony yet fruity kabinett. Semisweet in style, it’s chock-full of concentrated quince, pineapple and grapefruit, but also framed by cool steel and vibrant lemon-lime acidity. A lip-smacking, penetrating sip that’s delightful now, it will improve through 2030 and likely hold further still. —A.I.
