Flinty reduction hovers on the nose of this wine like a promise of longevity. On the palate, residual carbon dioxide heightens freshness before ripe, yellow pear takes over. This wine is juicy and bold, with a lovely tone of saffron spice edged with a hint of zestiness… The textured midpalate maximizes the sense of drive on the dry finish. Drink to 2040. —A.K.