Year’s Best Burgundy; Light, cool and narrow in its cherry-blossom scents and floral fruit, this is almost petulantly Burgundian. As one panelist said, “It’s red Burgundy, not pinot noir.” And then its tense, silken texture and umami length set up a riff on foods to match, from chicken liver mousse with peach mostarda to tagliatelle with porcini.
