Ultime Extra Brut NV 90 YB W&S Dec18

YEAR’S BEST CHAMPAGNE; The Boizel family produces this wine when the harvest ripens sufficiently to produce a wine without dosage. They supplement it with 40 percent reserve wines, aging the blend for six years or longer on the lees. It shares the golden color of several of the firm’s releases, its dry savor rounded by its smoky bottle maturity. Chalky minerality comes through in the end, making this thirst quenching with grilled langoustines.   – J.G.