A pleasant surprise to emerge from this year’s blind tastings was the fine showing of Ogier’s 2017 Vacqueyras Boiseraie. A blend of 60% Grenache, 35% Syrah and 5% Mourvèdre, aged in a mix of tank, foudre and demi-muids, this full-bodied, supple wine combines garrigue with ripe raspberries and chocolate overtones. Drink it over the next 4-5 years. – J.C.