VOUGEOT 1ER CRU LES CRAS BLANC 2017 91 W&S Apr20

This grows at a parcel just north of Clos de Vougeot, across the road, where the domaine farms 1.5 acres of vines. The fruit is destemmed, spontaneously fermented and aged in oak barrels (50 percent new). The wine is gamey and green at first, taking time to develop past its earthy funk toward red cherry and bright floral notes. It feels airy and succulent at the same time, increasingly bold, built to cellar. – T.T.