YEAR’S BEST CHAMPAGNE; This is the firm’s top selection of pinot noir (65 percent) and chardonnay, a portion (10 percent) vinified in oak, the wine aged 12 years on the lees. The opulence of the 2000 vintage comes through in this wine’s golden color, and the long aging shows in its elegant, toasty red-fruit notes. Fully mature, this is a wine for people who appreciate an oxidative style of Champagne. – J.G.