This focused SGN is tightly knit, blending threads of flavor and structure into a wine that’s elegant overall. Weaves streamlined, racy acidity with layers of dried papaya, macerated peach, briny mineral and fresh alpine forest, with hints of lemon curd and wood smoke. Though rich and lightly honeyed, this leaves a fresh, mouthwatering impression, with lots of zesty spice and mineral character on the very long finish. Drink now through 2040. – A.N.
