The 2014 Sicilia Menfi Merlot Sito dell’Ulmo is a darkly concentrated wine with soft cherry layering that segues to spice, plum and moist earth. This is not your usual Merlot by any stretch because there is a wild, slightly green side here that resembles olive or Sicilian caper. But there’s plenty of ripe cherry fruit to round off any hard edges. The wine becomes increasingly focused and centered after just a few minutes in the glass. – ML