Year’s Best Mosel Rieslings; Saskia Prüm, the fourth generation to lead this estate, took over from her father, Raimond, in 2017. It wasn’t an easy vintage, with hard frosts in the spring knocking yields down by as much as 60 percent, then summer heat waves alternated with heavy rain and hail. And yet she came through with some excellent wines, particularly from the Wehlener Sonnenuhr, where the family farms 15 acres of vines on steeply raked, slate-covered slopes. The concentration of the grapes reads in the wine’s texture, broad and full, the combination of volume and ethereality bringing to mind freshly whipped matcha tea. The flavors echo that contrast, a full range of citrus notes filigreed with aromas of roses and herbs, and profound depths of savory minerality. – T.T.
